Brass Kitchen brings new concept, international flavor to Steamboat’s restaurant scene

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Owner Paul Underwood, General Manager Bev Murray and partner Ryan Fowler stand inside the recently opened Brass Kitchen and Bar on Thursday, Dec. 21, 2023. The three have teamed up to offer Steamboat Springs a new concept that features internationally inspired food.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today

Paul Underwood and his business partner, Ryan Fowler, are bringing a unique dining experience to downtown Steamboat Springs with the Brass Kitchen and Bar.

“We draw inspiration and our foundation from the old world,” Underwood said. “The dishes are going to be the proteins, slow-cooked low and long.”

Underwood said the menu at his newest venture will feature flavors from around the globe with many of the items created using age-old techniques from France, Italy and Spain. However, the menu will also have an American melting pot inflection with tastes inspired by international dishes.



“We will introduce Latin and Asian flavors,” Underwood said. “Customers will see things like shishito peppers, and chef Ryan Fowler is currently working on a salsa that has to ferment for two weeks that will be a nice little spicy addendum to the pork cheek dish.”

At 700 Yampa St. in Steamboat Springs, the Brass Kitchen and Bar has taken over the spot that housed Otto Pint Gastroteca, which closed this fall. Underwood said his restaurant will offer internationally inspired comfort food reimagined with wholesome, planet-conscious ingredients and vegetarian and vegan options.



“The cooking process is definitely a big part of it,” Underwood said. “I like to describe it to the layman as barbecue without the smoke.”

The menu offers entrees such as the ratatouille at $19, with an option to add burrata for $4, and the baked barramundi with shiitake-miso broth, root vegetables hash, jasmine rice and chili threads for $32.

Large windows create a welcoming dining experience inside the Brass Kitchen and Bar on Monday, Dec. 18, 2023. The room has a large sit-down bar, lots of seating and art provided by the Westerly Western Art Gallery.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today

Other entrees include free-range chicken breast, cassoulet, Sriracha-braised pork cheeks and beef roast bordelaise. There is a starter menu with plates like blistered shishito pepper, hand-cut french fries poutine, Korean-braised pork ribs and French dip sliders, as well as curried chickpea and vegetable soup. There is a variety of salads and desserts including a mixed berry cobbler and chocolate pot de crème.

“We don’t want to go down the road of being a French fine-dining restaurant,” Fowler said. “We’re more middle ground, affordable and non-fine dining. We offer classical dishes.”

The Brass Kitchen and Bar’s staff will include general manager Bev Murray, and the kitchen will be led by Fowler.

Light pours into the large, welcoming dining section at the Brass Kitchen and Bar on Monday, Dec. 18, 2023. The room provides plenty of space for customers to come in and enjoy food, beverages and time with friends and family.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today

Fowler grew up on the Front Range before moving to Breckenridge, where he attended culinary school at Colorado Mountain College and served a three-year apprenticeship at Keystone Resort working in several restaurants. After finishing his culinary education, he went back to school and got a bachelor’s degree in business as he continued to work in Breckenridge. He then spent time traveling in South America before eventually returning to the mountains to work at Aurum, Café Diva, Truffle Pig and as a private chef in Steamboat Springs.

Underwood said their approach at the Brass Kitchen is to offer high-quality dishes at a more affordable price. To bring more value to the food and reduce labor costs, the Brass Kitchen will offer a counter service concept where staff members will provide information about the menu items and offer suggestions.

“People can come in and look the menu and wine list, and then decide what they want and step up to the counter,” Underwood said. “We have knowledgeable staff members that can help with allergies, talk about the different ingredients and the flavors, and about food pairings with wine or cocktails.”

Chef Ryan Fowler created this cassoulet, which is on the Brass Kitchen and Bar’s menu, on Monday, Dec. 18, 2023. The cassoulet is made using a slow-cooking process with duck leg confit, toulouse sausage, poultry jus, carrots and white beans.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today

After ordering, customers can find a table inside the spacious dining room where a waiter provides table service. The restaurant has a full bar offering cocktails, beer and wines. Underwood said the menu will change seasonally.

The Brass Kitchen and Bar will be open seven days a week from 3:30-9 p.m. with happy hour from 3:30-5 p.m. in which customers will get 25% off the total bill. Underwood said the restaurant is open every day of the year except for Thanksgiving and will be open on Christmas Day. The restaurant does not take reservations, and customers are helped on a first-come, first-seated basis. He said if no seating is available, there will be a waitlist.

“It is going to be about people understanding what we’re trying to accomplish and how we are going to get there,” said Underwood, who once owned Café Diva. “There will be elements that will reflect what we did in Diva, but for me this is a labor of love. I wanted to reimagine the restaurant experience in Steamboat where we can bring things to people at a price point that is favorable and offer a layout that is friendly to both locals and tourists.”

The chocolate pot de creme is topped with bruleed banana and vanilla chantilly cream.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today
The cassoulet, shown here, is one of the items at the Brass Kitchen and Bar. The new restaurant opened this month in downtown Steamboat Springs.
John F. Russell/Steamboat Pilot & Today
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